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Puglia is the region situated in the heel of Italy’s ‘boot’. It’s got an Amalfi coast like feel, but more rustic and authentic, if you ask me. It’s where all the Italians go on holiday.
We filmed there recently for the BBC Travel Show. Here are my behind the scenes tips:
MUST SEE IN PUGLIA:
Alberobello:
Possibly one of the most iconic images of Puglia is the traditional trulli homes. The small village of Alberobello is awash with these UNESCO protected trulli, with their conical roofs and thick stone walls to keep the interior cool.
Alberobello is sprinkled with quaint restaurants, bars and shops, all housed inside trulli. But it’s extremely busy during the summer months, so be sure to get there early or stay overnight to find a brief moment in the day without too many crowds.
Torre Sant’Andrea:
You cannot visit Puglia without seeing the turquoise blue waters and stunning coastline at Torre Sant’Andrea. Known for its natural rock formations, including the iconic sea stacks called “Faraglioni,” it’s a perfect spot for swimming, snorkeling, and photography. During the summer, there are swimmers leaping from the rocks into the sea.
Check out the nearby local restaurants for fresh seafood. If you want a more sheltered swimming spot head to the cove, a short 3 minute walk around the corner.
Otranto:
Otranto, the easternmost town in Italy, boasts a rich history and stunning seafront views. Its main attraction is the Otranto Cathedral, home to an impressive 12th-century mosaic floor. The Aragonese Castle and the town’s ancient walls provide a glimpse into its storied past. With its beautiful beaches and historic sites, Otranto offers a perfect blend of culture and relaxation.
Polignano a Mare:
Polignano a Mare is a picturesque town perched on cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Famous for its dramatic coastal views and white-washed buildings, it’s an ideal spot for cliff diving and enjoying the scenic Lama Monachile beach. Stroll through its charming old town, visit the statue of Domenico Modugno, and savor fresh seafood at local restaurants.
Lecce:
Often referred to as the “Florence of the South,” Lecce is renowned for its stunning Baroque architecture. The city is filled with ornate churches, such as the Basilica di Santa Croce, and historical sites like the Roman amphitheater. Wander through its lively streets, enjoy the vibrant café culture, and immerse yourself in the rich artistic and historical heritage of this southern Italian gem.
HIDDEN GEMS IN PUGLIA:
Bevagna:
Puglia in the summer is hot, so a lot of shops close during the hottest part of the afternoon. Most places close between 2-4:30pm.
Which is why we headed to the beach. Our favourite was this sandy stretch in front of San Pietro in Bevagna.
Carovigno:
A bit further inland is the cute whitewashed town of Carovigno. There are loads of good restaurants, and so many bakeries and patisseries to your challenge your will power. Pastichotto is a must try. And don’t forget to indulge in sustainable wines at Sommarco, there’s vegan dishes on the menu too.
Carovigno is a picturesque, white-washed town that fans out from a caramel coloured castle at its centre. There are loads of good restaurants, and so many bakeries and patisseries that your will power will be seriously challenged!
Presicce & Aquarica:
Check out Presicce and Aquarica, the streets are covered in fabulous murals done by a local artist, Maria Marina Mancuso.
This charming town is offering €30,000 for you to buy a house and become part of its rejuvenation program.
To beat the heat, go underground to see the centuries old olive mills. It’s not publicly accessible, you’ve got to do a guided tour.
EATING AND DRINKING IN PUGLIA:
Som Marco Wine Bar:
Nestled in the charming town of Carovigno in Puglia, SomMarco Wine Bar is a must-visit for wine enthusiasts and food lovers alike. This cozy and stylish venue offers an extensive selection of local and regional wines, showcasing the rich viticultural heritage of Puglia. Guests can enjoy expertly curated wine tastings, paired with delicious antipasti featuring local cheeses, cured meats, and other regional specialties. With its warm atmosphere, knowledgeable staff, and commitment to quality, SomMarco provides an unforgettable experience that captures the essence of Puglia’s culinary and wine traditions.
Doppiozero, Lecce:
Doppiozero is a trendy and beloved café and bistro located in the heart of Lecce. Known for its stylish, modern ambiance and welcoming atmosphere, it’s a popular spot among locals and tourists alike. The menu features a delightful array of fresh, locally-sourced dishes, from traditional Puglian specialties to innovative culinary creations. Whether you’re stopping by for a leisurely breakfast, a light lunch, or an evening aperitivo, Doppiozero offers a memorable dining experience. Don’t miss their freshly baked pastries and artisan coffees, which perfectly complement the vibrant cultural backdrop of Lecce.
Baldo Gelato:
Baldo Gelato, located off the main square in Lecce, is a paradise for gelato lovers. Known for its artisanal approach and use of high-quality, locally-sourced ingredients, Baldo Gelato offers a wide variety of flavours that capture the essence of Italian gelato. Among its standout offerings is the intense yet authentic pistachio gelato—a must-try for any visitor. One bite of this delectable treat, and you’ll understand why Baldo Gelato is one of my favourites.
Oasi Del Gusto:
Nestled just off the main square in Carovigno, is a delightful café and coffee shop that captures the essence of local charm. In the summer months, pull up and outdoor seat and indulge in a capezzoli di Venere cake, a decadent treat, like a chocolate truffle, made from pureed chestnuts, bittersweet chocolate, and brandy. As it’s provocative name suggests, the ‘nipple’ of this cake is made from white chocolate.
THINGS TO DO IN PUGLIA
Dance the pizzica:
Immerse yourself in Puglia’s culture by taking a local dance class to learn the ancient Pizzica dance. It’s a lively and expressive folk dance that’s deeply rooted in the region’s history.
Take a boat tour:
Take part in a cooking class:
Puglia has arguably the best food in Italy, so it would be rude not to take a cooking class while you’re there. There are a variety of hands-on classes available, allowing you to learn the secrets of traditional Puglian cuisine from local chefs. You’ll prepare classic dishes like orecchiette pasta, savour fresh, locally-sourced ingredients, and enjoy the fruits of your labor in a convivial setting. It’s a fantastic way to deepen your appreciation of the region’s culinary traditions and take home a taste of Puglia.